What an adventure to hit the road with a good friend, even though it is winter and the road conditions can be abismal. But my friend Susanne has a good car (a German make) that is great on snow, slush and ice, and she is an excellent driver. We ventured to the interior of British Columbia, on the infamous Coquihalla Highway to the city of Kamloops. It is in Kamloops’ surroundings where part of the action is set in my next mystery thriller that I`ve been writing.
We visited the Kamloops Indian Residential School, a horrible (now closed) boarding school for indigenous childeren, like so many that existed in Canada, run by the Catholic church in the name of the Canadian government. For most children, this kind of school was hell on earth. Boys and girls were beaten, raped, molested, tortured, driven to suicide. In Kamloops, their bodies were thrown into holes in the orchard and covered up. No proper grave, no cross with a name, no funeral, no ceremony. Some children were taken away from their parents at the age of three. Some never saw their parents until they left the school many years later, scarred for life.
It was the government’s goal to assimilate the indigenous children into the white society. They were not allowed to speak their mother tongue or to practice their culture. It is a dark, dark chapter in Canada`s history.
Fortunately, one finds places in Kamloops that soothe the soul, for instance the Grasslands Protected Area, where Susanne and I went hiking in the snow. There is an exceptional vegetation of interesting grasses and sage bushes. In the summer, when it is very hot in Kamloops, one could encounter rattle snakes here because it is a semi-desert area. No reason not to walk here because of the snakes: you just have to have sturdy shoes and put the feet firmly on the ground. The snakes will feel the ground shake and disappear.
I also wanted to see the ski resort of Sun Peaks, not far from Kamloops, whose architecture emulates the style of European mountain villages. I don`t ski anymore but Sun Peaks reminded me of my youth when I rather clumsily glided down the ski slopes in Switzerland. The pandemic didn’t seem to affect Sun Peaks apart from the fact that one had to wear a mask and show the vaccine passport in the cafés and restaurants. The eateries were full, the walking paths, too, and the sun poured its light onto the slopes and ski lifts.
On our way back, we visited Merritt, a small rural town with a captivating pioneer atmosphere. In the summer, Merritt attracts large crowds with open air concerts. I like towns that are not impeccably groomed and restored. In Merritt, I especially liked the historic Coldwater Hotel, more than 110 years old and looking like the backdrop for a Western. Susanne and I ate cinnamon buns in a coffeeshop that was indigenous (the bun were made with bannock): a highlight for two adventurous women on a road trip in the middle of winter!
